France targets Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees

France has started imposing fees on fast fashion items which could reach almost €20 per garment by 2030, as the government tries to curb sales of cheap clothing sold by e-commerce sites.

The levy, which came into force on Tuesday, follows a new law passed in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.

The e-commerce giants, known for selling large volumes of cheap apparel, have been criticised by French officials for driving a surge in ultra-fast fashion.

China's commerce ministry has described the French law as discriminatory and a trade barrier, saying it could violate World Trade Organization (WTO) principles.

French minister Mathieu Lefevre said the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy were "well known".

In July, Lefevre's office said the levy would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some to say that the measure appeared to spare European companies.

Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two factors: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price.

The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.