European textile federation proposes €10 fashion import fee

A federation of European textile associations is calling for a €10 import fee on fashion shipments, the latest move to curb the flood of ultra-cheap apparel mainly from China. The proposal, announced Tuesday, aims to level the playing field for local manufacturers struggling against fast-fashion giants that dominate online sales. Industry groups argue the fee would protect jobs and reduce environmental harm caused by overproduction and rapid product cycles.

The push comes as fast-fashion retailers face growing signs of consumer fatigue. Dr Sheng Lu, a professor at the University of Delaware’s Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, told FRANCE 24 that while import taxes might slow low-cost imports, it’s unclear whether they’ll force companies like Shein to change how they operate. “The real question is whether these measures will push fast-fashion brands to rethink their business models,” he said. Recent data shows shoppers are buying fewer items per order, returning more goods, and showing greater interest in sustainability—signals that the relentless churn of new styles may be losing its appeal.

Behind the push is a sharp rise in imports from countries with lower production costs, undercutting European makers. The European textile federation says the €10 fee would generate revenue to support local factories and eco-friendly innovation. But critics warn it could raise prices for consumers already facing inflation, and may do little to curb demand for cheap fashion. Meanwhile, Shein and similar brands continue to expand in Europe, using social media and influencer marketing to drive sales.

Lu suggests that even without new regulations, fast-fashion brands may soon have to adapt. “Consumer fatigue is real,” he said. “Brands that ignore it risk losing loyalty.” As pressure grows from regulators, investors, and shoppers, the industry may be entering a new phase—one where sustainability and quality matter more than speed and price.